Lagos is the liveliest town in the western Algarve, and at the same time the best preserved. Inside the old walls run narrow streets full of terraces; outside them stand the cliffs that half of Portugal's postcards depend on. Half an hour's drive from us.

Ponta da Piedade

Portugal's most famous rock formations: yellow cliffs, caves and arches rising straight out of the sea. From the lighthouse you can walk along the edge, with steps down for those who want a closer look.

The best light is early morning or the last hour before sunset. In the middle of the day the sun sits flat on it and the colour disappears.

The caves from the water

Small boats run into the cliffs from the harbour. Pick one small enough to actually get inside the caves — the larger boats stay outside, and that's exactly where the best part is.

Kayaking is an option too. More effort, but you get everywhere and you decide how long to linger.

The old town

Within the walls Lagos is compact and largely car-free. Praça Infante Dom Henrique with its statues, the Igreja de Santo António with its lavish gilded interior, and streets that lead you to a terrace whether you meant to or not.

Stay for dinner. Lagos has the widest choice on this side of the Algarve, from simple grill houses to serious kitchens.

Lagos is a town day with a view. If you want waves, surf and empty beaches, carry on to the west coast — that's a different day entirely.