Silves was once the capital of the Algarve, larger and wealthier than Lisbon. It has since settled back into being a sleepy town of eight thousand — but the castle is still there, and so is something of the atmosphere of those days.
Start at the castle
The Castelo de Silves is built of red sandstone and is the best-preserved Moorish structure in the Algarve. From the walls you look out over the orange groves all the way to Monchique.
Go in the morning, before the coaches. Around nine you'll almost have it to yourself, and the light on the red stone is at its best.
The cathedral and the old town
Right beside the castle stands the Sé, built on the site of the mosque. Plain inside, and all the better for it.
Afterwards, wander down into the narrow streets without a plan. Silves is small enough to get lost in without really getting lost.
Along the Arade
At the bottom of the town lies the river, with a park, a playground and the old bridge. It's a few degrees cooler here than up by the castle.
For children this is the reward after an hour of culture. For you, a bench in the shade.
Half a day is enough for the castle and the old town. Add lunch and time by the river and you'll fill a whole one. From Casa Festi you're there in four minutes — so an evening visit is just as easy.