The beaches near us are sheltered and peaceful. If you drive all the way to the south-west, that changes completely. At Sagres, the south coast ends and the coastline turns northwards — from there, it takes the full force of the Atlantic swell. This is the Algarve for surfers, walkers and people who’d rather have an empty beach than a sun lounger.
Sagres — where the coast turns
Sagres is the south-westernmost tip of the Algarve, and at Cabo de São Vicente you’re standing on the south-westernmost point of mainland Europe. A lighthouse, sixty-metre cliffs and nothing but ocean beyond. Seafarers once called this the end of the world, and on a windy day you can see why.
Here you can see the difference between the two coasts in one place. Praia da Mareta lies to the south and is sheltered; Praia do Tonel, a few hundred metres further on, faces west and is full of waves. Walk from one to the other and you’ll immediately understand why the west coast feels different.
Do also take a look at the Fortaleza de Sagres, the fort on the headland. It’s not particularly spectacular inside, but it’s quite special to stand where the cliffs drop down into the sea on three sides.
Arrifana and the Costa Vicentina
An hour's drive and you're on the real west coast. Arrifana is a bay beneath high cliffs, with a surf beach that looks calm at its best and never is. From the viewpoint above you can see in a single glance why people drive out of their way for this.
This is protected natural park. No promenade, no rows of parasols — a small car park, a stairway down, and nothing else.
Surfing and bodyboarding
The west coast takes the swell head-on, so there are always waves. Surf schools combine board hire with lessons and pick the beach that works best that day — worth more than guessing yourself.
For children from about eight, bodyboarding is the best first step: easier than surfing and instantly rewarding. Do it on a beach with lifeguards, not on an empty bay.
Please note: Lagos, Ponta da Piedade, Praia da Luz and Burgau are not included here — these are on the south coast, where the waters are much calmer. You can read more about them in our article on Lagos. If you’re looking for a place to swim close to home, have a look at the beaches around Silves.